Past the small fishing village of Lagun, on Curaçao's northwest coast, the road hugs the sea before a discreet sign points to the access for Playa Jeremi. You park in a free, unpaved lot, then walk down a staircase carved into the volcanic rock to a cove tucked between two cliffs. The water here is calm and clear enough to make you want to dive in right away, with a mix of sand and coral patches on the bottom for snorkeling fans.
This isn't a developed beach. There's no restaurant or beach bar on site, just a few shaded spots under the trees lining the sand. That's exactly what makes it a favorite among islanders rather than the crowds heading to the bigger west coast beaches like Cas Abao or Porto Mari.
Playa Jeremi is also known as one of the best spots to watch the sun set over the Caribbean Sea, since the cove faces due west. Toward the end of the day, a few families or groups of friends set up with their own cooler, since there are no shops nearby, and wait for the sky to catch fire above the water.
The detail that stays with you: on the cliff overlooking the cove, the village kids sometimes jump into the turquoise water, a quiet ritual only the regulars really know about.
You'll need a car
Most of the best beaches are at least 45 minutes from Willemstad. Renting a car is not optional.