Facing St. Anna Bay, the row of facades along the Handelskade is probably the most photographed image in the Dutch Caribbean. But Willemstad did not always show itself in technicolor.
The legend of the migraine-prone governor
In the early 19th century, the city's houses were whitewashed with lime, as in many colonies. It was then that Governor-General Albert Kikkert is said to have banned white facades: the sun's glare off the white walls gave him migraines, or so he claimed. The story adds, and this is the most delicious part of the legend, that he supposedly held shares in a paint business. True or embellished, the anecdote has become the official explanation for the city's colors, and no one in Curaçao would dream of denying it.
A listed heritage site
What is certain: the historic center of Willemstad, together with its inner harbor, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. Its architecture blends Dutch codes, stepped gables, canal-house proportions, with tropical adaptations: shaded galleries, vivid colors and roofs designed for the heat.
Four districts, four moods
Punda, the original core founded in the 17th century, holds the famous Handelskade facades and the shopping streets. Across the water, on the other side of the Queen Emma pontoon bridge, Otrobanda cultivates a more down-to-earth, creative spirit of narrow streets, street art and colorful staircases. Pietermaai, long neglected, has become the district of restored pastel facades, cafés and boutique hotels. Scharloo, finally, lines up the former merchants' mansions and a fine collection of murals.
The best time to enjoy it all? Late afternoon, when the low sun deepens the colors of the Handelskade, or Thursday evening, when Punda Vibes fills the district with music.
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